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TagsBY MARY ANN CASTRONOVO FUSCO
NEWJERSEYNEWSROOM.COM
Omens supposedly come in threes, and a trio of recent events has proved to me beyond a shadow of a doubt that New Jersey is enjoying one of its sweetest peach seasons ever.
When the local crop kicked in last month, I placed a bowl of the fruit on my dining table, along with West Coast cherries and grapes for visiting relatives from Italy. (Now, anyone who's ever had Italian relatives visit knows how demanding they can be about fresh fruit.) My guests politely took a few cherries and nibbled some grapes. The peaches vanished so quickly, I almost doubted having put them on the table at all.
Ever since that night, my teenage son — who typically has to be reminded to eat anything — keeps coming into the kitchen (where there's no TV, or Xbox, or anything else of any real consequence to him) to grab a peach from the fruit bowl on the counter.And just the other night, my husband — who's never been one to talk food — looked up from a paper towel holding a pair of pits and, in a tone usually reserved for describing a race car dominating a hairpin curve, intoned, "Those were two of the best peaches I've ever eaten."
With evidence like that, who needs a study? Yet, there's plenty of science to back up my hunch.
"The peaches are excellent, because we've had a really dry growing season with lots of sunshine. We came into the season with ample moisture in the soil," said Jerry Frecon, an agricultural agent specializing in fruit with the Rutgers NJ Agricultural Experiment Station Cooperative Extension of Gloucester County in Clayton, N.J..
Having just polished off a white nectarine (aka a white-fleshed fuzzless peach) that was 22-percent sugar, Frecon explained, "Our sugar contents have been very high because we'd had lots of sunlight." Whereas the sugar content of last year's crop averaged between 9.5 and 11 percent, this year, it's 12.5 to 20 percent. And yet, "demand is light," said Frecon. "The wholesale growers are not moving fruit as much as they'd like to. People don't eat as much fresh fruit as they should."
A good source of dietary fiber, iron, calcium, and potassium, peaches are rich in vitamins A and C. Moreover, stone fruits, such as peaches, have especially high levels of phenols, organic compounds that affect aroma, taste, and color. Two phenolic compounds found in peaches (and plums) have been shown to kill breast cancer cells without harming normal cells, according to research by Dr. Luis Cisneros-Zevallos and Dr. David Byrne of AgriLife Research at Texas A&M University, published last year in Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry. All the peaches tested had about the same level of phenols, said Frecon.
With close to 6,500 acres producing about 65 million pounds of peaches, New Jersey ranks fourth in output, behind California, South Carolina and Georgia. The 120 varieties of peaches cultivated locally include yellow and white-fleshed peaches and nectarines, as well as flat peentos, which are often labeled as Donut peaches. Production peaks in August — dubbed "Jersey Fresh Peach Month" — but continues into early fall.
Ask Rudy Ploch, who's been growing peaches at Ploch's Farm in Clifton for more than 20 years, how he most enjoys the fruit from his orchards, and he'll say there's no breakfast more satisfying than a bowl of cereal topped with slices of fresh peach. And on a hot summer day, who wants to fuss when all you have to do is rinse and eat?
But according to cooking instructor Rick Rodgers of Maplewood, author of more than 35 books, including Summer Gatherings (Morrow, 2008), there are lots of "wing-it summer creations" that tap into the sweet taste of peaches with a minimum of time and effort. Among them:
Peach-Prosciutto Antipasto: Wrap thin slices of prosciutto around wedges of ripe peaches that have been chilled.
Peachy Salad: Toss chunks of fresh peaches into your favorite salad. The sweetness of the fruit pairs particularly well with the bite of arugula. Dress with a sherry vinaigrette.
Peach Crostini: Lightly toast quarter-inch-thick baguette slices brushed with fruity olive oil over a medium grill. Spread about two teaspoons of softened Gorgonzola on the toasted sides and return to the grill to toast the other side. Meanwhile, grill peach wedges on an oiled grate, turning once until just heated through and seared (about 4 minutes). Top each slice with a grilled peach wedge and season with freshly ground pepper and, if desired, a drizzle of honey.
Peach-Prosecco Soup: Puree fully ripened peaches with chilled Prosecco and a squeeze of lemon or lime juice. If desired, stir in a bit of honey to taste and garnish with fine strips of fresh basil or mint. Figure on using about half a cup of Prosecco for each cup of peach puree.
Peachy Ribs: Substitute peach puree for the sugar in your favorite BBQ sauce recipe. Balance the flavor with honey or brown sugar. Brush on ribs and cook as you usually would.
Easy as they are to make, each of these dishes depend on top-quality, tree-ripened fruit at peak flavor.
To avoid bringing home peaches with the mouth feel of a tennis ball, make sure you:
Look — Avoid shriveled, bruised or green-tinged fruit. The amount of red blush on the skin will vary by variety, but the skins of yellow-fleshed peaches and nectarines should be predominantly red over a yellow undercolor; that of white-fleshed varieties should have a substantial portion of red overcolor over a white background.
Touch — The fruit should feel firm, but not rock-hard. Firm peaches will soften if left at room temperature. Buy fully softened (but never mushy) fruit only if you plan on eating it the same day.
Sniff — Peaches should give off a pleasant aroma that makes you want to take them home.
A list of pick-your-own farms and roadside markets that feature locally grown peaches can be accessed via the NJ Peach Promotion Council web site, www.jerseypeaches.com.
Mary Ann Castronovo Fusco is a freelance writer and editor based in Leonia, N.J.. Her web site is www.macfusco.com.
