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Sunday
Mar 18th

Nico Kitchen + Bar: Chef Ryan DePersio's hard work pays off with NJPAC's new restaurant

For the downtown business crowd, there’s a cast of sandwiches, pizzas, pastas, and entrees at lunch Monday through Friday, as well as at dinner on nonperformance nights, Monday through Saturday, with free on-site parking. On performance nights and matinees, a $40 three-course prix-fixe menu is the only option, but there’s a choice of four dishes for each course. When the weather warms up, tables for 80 outdoors in front of the restaurant will augment seating in the sleek, contemporary lounge, bar, and dining room.

How does the affable chef, who turns 34 on St. Patrick’s Day, divide his time among the three properties? “Wisely,” he says, with a broad smile. “It’s a matter of being prepared and organized—part of your everyday thing in the restaurant business anyway. I like the organized chaos of restaurants.” The only question remaining is, will his new audience bite—and applaud?

[Recipe follows]

Pomegranate-Chili Glazed Wings with Creamy Gorgonzola Dipping Sauce

From Ryan DePersio, Chef, Nico Kitchen + Bar, NJPAC, Newark

2 cups pomegranate molasses

1 cup ketchup

¾ cup Sriracha (Thai hot sauce)

2 cups brown sugar

10 chicken wings (or more, depending on needed servings)

Flour mixture for dredging (composed of equal parts of all-purpose, semolina, and durum flour and cornmeal)

Canola oil for frying

Combine first four ingredients in a saucepan. Cook over low heat for 20 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.

Dredge chicken wings in flour mixture.

Place oil in a large frying pan and heat to 350 degrees F.

Fry wings in oil for 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden on both sides. Drain on paper toweling.

Place wings in a large bowl and toss with about ¼ cup of the pomegranate-chili glaze. (Refrigerate excess glaze, covered, for another use.) Serve with creamy Gorgonzola dipping sauce.

Creamy Gorgonzola Dipping Sauce

From Ryan DePersio, Chef, Nico Kitchen + Bar, NJPAC, Newark

1 pound crumbed Gorgonzola

2 tablespoons grated shallots

1 cup yogurt

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Splash of Worcestershire sauce

Mix all ingredients well. Transfer to a serving bowl.

Refrigerate excess dipping sauce in an airtight container.

Mary Ann Castronovo Fusco is a writer and editor based in Leonia. Her website is www.macfusco.com



 

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